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  • At Celine, the Designer Who Fell to Earth

    A cube drifts down the runway, all four sides clad in theatrical red curtains, and the curtains slowly begin to rise, revealing a contraption made of metal and lights that holds a single model sitting in stasis waiting for his cue to get ‘out of the box.’ In his glittering diamanté-encrusted suit, he is reminiscent of David Bowie’s character Thomas Jerome Newton in Nicolas Roeg’s 1976 film ‘The Man Who Fell to Earth,’ who sits watching multiple screens at once, absorbing American culture.

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    Jun 23, 2019 18:09:00

    Ode to Orlando at Comme des Gar?ons

    A runway show split over four acts, with four different lighting set-ups, four distinct soundtracks, and so much more. With Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Gar?ons, we’re often left with little more than guesswork as we extract meaning, if any, so skillfully concealed. Today, however, we had a clue: she's recently been tapped to design the costumes for a new production of Virginia Woolf's gender-fluid, time-traveling classic Orlando at the Vienna State Opera — clearly on her mind at today's outing.

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    Jun 22, 2019 15:05:00

    Farm to Runway: Junya Watanabe

    Opening to the farmyard sounds of a rooster crowing a wake-up call, Watanabe sent out his first look replete with an oversized tote bag stamped with the logo of the infamous London restaurant St John. The restaurant began life as the food side of Soho’s The French House, a bar frequented by the likes of Francis Bacon, Dylan Thomas and Lucian Freud, before moving into St John street in Clerkenwell near to Smithfield’s meat market. They specialize in ‘nose to tail’ cooking, using offal and parts of the animal that aren’t usually used.

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    Jun 21, 2019 21:40:00

    Giving Floral at Dries Van Noten

    Dries Van Noten took us to a venue we had never been to before today, something very rare on the fashion week treadmill, and then turned our expectations upside down. It was composed of a series of vast white ‘perfect’ spaces for a gallery show. Or indeed, a runway show, that ended in a long intimate corridor bathed in hot pink light. And this was the master touch: taking us out of our comfort zone and dragging us into the unique world of his collection.

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    Jun 21, 2019 18:55:00

    Printer Friendly at Yohji Yamamoto

    A Yohji Yamamoto show comes with certain expectations and, in the same breath, certain unknowns. We know that he is the undisputed king of all things black, and that his garments are poetry in motion, but something he doesn’t usually get credit for is his astute eye, and hand, for print.

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    Jun 21, 2019 12:15:00

    Slim and Sculpted at Rick Owens

    The invitation was a layered sculptural object signed Thomas Houseago, a Los Angeles-based artist who has his first retrospective in France at the moment in the Musée d’Art Moderne. The museum shares a common courtyard with the Palais de Tokyo, Owens’ venue of choice where we found ourselves today, face-to-face with a huge Houseago sculpture that occupied the space between the two museums, dominating the runway scenography. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade, right?

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    Jun 20, 2019 19:27:00

    Dark Forces at Comme des Gar?ons

    Last season was brutal, referencing war and pain, so we were ready for an uncomfortable ride from the outset at Comme des Gar?ons. This season we were treated to a ritual, though I’m unsure as to what kind of spell Rei cast on us.

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    Mar 03, 2019 17:41:00

    New Harajuku at Junya Watanabe

    Junya Watanabe opened with the raucous proto-propaganda of Grimes’ last single, ‘We Appreciate Power’, which she claimed was based on North Korean prop-pop group Moranbong, but in reality sounded like a teen-angst J-Pop song. It was perfect for the girl that was conjured up on the runway today. She was a love letter to old-school Harajuku, East-meets-West, doll-eyed, big-haired, and stomping in silver cowboy boots — truly eclectic style.

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    Mar 02, 2019 14:01:00

    Different Strokes at Yohji Yamamoto

    Was it a coincidence that the inventor of silver gaffer tape, Ross Lowell, passed away seven days ago and Yamamoto had three strips of silver gaffer on his invitation, though none at all in the show? Probably. But then, we are always left trying to decode the workings of Yamamoto, who, in all fairness, simply makes some of the most painfully beautiful clothes on the market.

    Read More

    Mar 01, 2019 19:04:00

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  • 市中级人民法院开展形式多样节能减排活动 2019-09-09
  • 幼童坠入60米深窄井 消防官兵“倒挂金钩”营救 2019-09-09
  • 我国实现中高层大气OH自由基精确探测 2019-09-06
  • 西藏去年1705个贫困村实现脱贫 2019-08-20
  • 中国人大60周年纪念专题 2019-08-18
  • 一批重磅项目今天签约落子浙江 军民融合发力数字经济 2019-08-17
  • 新疆科研人员“妙手”引导致病细菌发挥“以毒攻毒”效应 大肠杆菌可除水体汞硒污染 2019-08-15
  • 跟着抖音去旅行,五一小长假,你的专属攻略请查收! 2019-08-15
  • 民国末年,钱昌照“西归又北游” 2019-08-09
  • 长治举行 “6.16”大型安全生产宣传咨询日活动 2019-07-28
  • 机器人送快递将在西安试点 识别红绿灯还能“车让人” 2019-07-28
  • 网传广东东莞某学校高考理综泄题 教育局回应 2019-07-12
  • 西藏加快打造面向南亚国际物流枢纽 2019-07-08
  • 阿根廷VS冰岛前瞻:梅西出战欧洲黑马 急需强势回应C罗 2019-07-08
  • 最高检等四部门出台意见 指导依法办理恐怖活动和极端主义犯罪案件 2019-06-27
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